Measure rear ride heights from floor up to bottom of 2x3 or 2x2 on frame just outside of where link mount is welded.

Remember these are recommendations, someplace to start. I am not saying you have to run 3off wheels on the front, just weigh your car out with the same offsets & tire stagger every time so you have the same base starting point every time you scale your car. Always begin scaling with 20 gallons of fuel. I like to run a 25lb chunk of lead in front of fuel cell. I like to set the camber, caster & toe before weighing. Always get ride heights set before setting front end. When setting toe make sure idler arm & pitman arm are running straight with car, parallel with frame horns, meaning not running off to the left. After doing this you are ready to square & center rear end in car.

Squaring Rear End
Start off by getting your motor set back legal - it has to be 72" from front on the motor plate to the center of rear end. Set your car on the scales, hook your tape measure on the front side of motor plate & measure to the center of the rear end, make it 72 1/8",make sure pinion angle is set at 8 degrees when measuring motor set back. The extra 1/8" gives you some tolerance for tech purposes. Do this measuring at the right side of the car. Now stand in front of car and make sure the front tires are running straight ahead, also look at it from behind. After the front tires are running straight, measure from the right front hub to the right rear hub. Then measure the left side the same way. Remember do not move the front wheels after you start measuring. I like to start off with the rear end 1/4" to 3/8" shorter on the left then the right. Measure from the center of the ball joint on the right to the front of the rear end on the right, using a square or plumb bob. Then measure the left the same way. When moving rear end forward or backward always remember to keep your birdcages indexed, meaning the rear bars at the birdcages are 90 degrees to each other, meaning the top heim is directly above rear end housing & bottom bar is directly below. Be sure to check pinion if you have to adjust rear bars a lot.

Centering Rear End
Now we will locate the rear end from left to right. Go to the right rear tire & face it, kneel down with tape measure in hand & butt the tape measure up against the outside of the torque link bracket. Measure from the outside of the bracket to the outside of the right upper frame rail 14.5". The more you move the rear end to the left the tighter the car should become, because this should promote roll & give you more side bite.

Pinion Angle
You are ready to set pinion angle now. I recommend 8 degrees. Shorten your swaged tube on your pull bar for more pinion angle, lengthen to take pinion angle out. After your pinion angle is set check preload on pull bar spring, start out with 1/4 to 3/8 depending on spring & suspension type.

 
REAR SUSPENSION TECH

4 Bar, Left Side of Chassis
We use a 13" 5/8 swegde tube on top bar. I like to start with my left top 4 bar 22 to 25 degrees uphill to chassis. Start out with the left top bar in the back top hole on the birdcage. Make sure the birdcage is indexed level.

Tuning the Left Upper 4 Bar
Move bar up at chassis gives more traction or bite
Move bar down at chassis gives you less traction or bite

We use a 11-5/8" swegde tube on the bottom. I like to start with my left lower 4 bar 5 degrees uphill.

Tuning the Left Bottom 4 Bar
Moving the left bottom 4 bar up frees car up when on the gas, puts more rear steer in car
Lowering the left lower bar tightens car when on the gas, this takes steer out

Moving the right upper 4 bar up on the chassis tightens the car on entry & it will loosen on exit
Moving the right upper 4 bar down on the chassis loosens the car on entry & it will tighten exit

Tuning Bottom Z-Link Bar
The more angle uphill to chassis the more steer it puts in rear freeing car up
The more you lower the bar the tighter the car will be, this takes steer out.

We use a 13" 5/8 swegde tube on the back bar. Start out with back z-link bar 5 degrees down hill. We have moved the back z-link bar forward & back, we have changed it from round to square, whatever length of rear swegde tube you use, make sure the birdcage is level at bottom or indexed straight up & down.

Tuning Back Z-Link Bar
The more angle down hill in back bar the more steer it puts in freeing car up.
The more you raise the back bar at the chassis the tighter the car will be this takes steer out.
Don't be afraid to raise the back bar up so it is uphill at the back, when the track gets real dry

Tuning Right Lower 2 Link Bar
Move right lower 2link bar up to free car up
Move right lower 2link bar down to tighten car

Tuning Pull Long or Short
The more angle downhill you put in torque link the more forward bite you should have
The less angle you have you might not have as much instant traction but you should be able to drive through the center better depending on set up, taking angle out will also tighten your car up on corner entry.
The longer pull bar will tighten your car on corner entry, compared to the short one.
The longer pull might not have has much instant bite but should bite farther down the straightaway compared to the short one.
You can move pull bar to the left at the front & at the back to tighten car off of the turn.

J-Bar
Start with jbar 9" from bottom of 2 by 2 square panhard mount to the center of heim on the jbar & the other end of jbar bolt in the center of pinion on the gear. The more you move the jbar up in the car the freer the car becomes, because this raises the roll center. The more you lower the jbar the tighter the car becomes, because you lower the rollcenter.

Straight Bar
Start with straight bar 9" 3/4 tube center of pinion on gear, put angle finder on the straight bar & then raise on frame until you are 23 degrees down hill. Adjustments same as jbar.